3.20.2017

Things I Love About Living in China


Hi all! I'm so glad to have you here. 
It's been awhile since I've written a blog post. I figured that in my free time today, I could make a blog post about my favorite things about living in China. 

Our recent Saturday out exploring Bagua-tian (a replica of the Song dynasty octagonal field farmed by the emperor himself.)
I like this picture of Lu a lot. 


Family-

This is definitely one of the most important factors of my Chinese expat life. I have a unique perspective to offer on the Chinese family culture as I'm married into one! Although it's still difficult for me to fully communicate with my in-laws since I don't speak much Chinese-much less Hangzhou dialect-we still get along well with our limited conversation. My husband, Lu, is our only real hope of making sure we understand each other. 

We almost always get together on the weekend, usually on Sunday night, for dinner at my in-laws' house. This way, we can keep up on what's going on each other's lives (and I can enjoy my mother-in-law's delicious cooking!) By now, she knows all my personal favorites of hers, and she makes sure to prepare them when we come over for dinner. Even more, she makes sure that my favorite dish is placed right in front of me on the table for easy access with my chopsticks! 

Life with a Chinese family has really taught me about respect for one another especially in the unspoken things we do for each other. American culture is much more about direct communication of our love. We hug each other, kiss each other, and say "I love you." In most East Asian cultures--read Japanese, Korean,Chinese--symbols of our love are much more implicit. For example, my in-laws always insist on setting and clearing the dinner table by themselves. I always manage to grab a few empty dishes and take them to the kitchen, but I always get reprimanded for trying to help out. They insist on me sitting down on the couch and relaxing. "Eat some fruit!"-they say. Talk about true hospitality. Even though I'm family! 

Moreover, I always return to our apartment downtown to find it stocked with enough milk, yogurt, bread, and fruit to last us through the weekend (or longer!) So much for adult responsibilities and shopping for ourselves. In fact, I had to tell my mother-in-law that she was giving us more oranges than we could possibly ever eat. "Please, tell your mother, no more oranges!" I said to Lu two weeks in a row. Even more, when she comes for an apartment re-stocking, she'll often fold our clothes still left out on the clothesline, and lay them in a neat stack on the bed. 

My father-in-law is also great. Despite the facts his father is in hospice (so he's commuting almost every day to take care of him) & he often has overtime at his job, he always welcomes me with a smiling face. He helps out my mother-in-law in the kitchen and hardly ever sits down inside the house. Last summer, before the G20 Summit in Hangzhou, he learned a sentence in English every day. Although I'm sure he's forgotten most of them by now, I appreciate his gusto and warm-heartedness.

Although in the past Lu's parents' beliefs have collided with mine, we all get along pretty well. Near the beginning of my expat life in China, Lu related his mother's advice after a night out: that I shouldn't wear such bright eyeshadow to family gatherings (even though I had specifically gotten compliments on it from his family members). As I believe in makeup as an important part of self-expression, that piece of "advice" didn't go over well. In fact, I bluntly told Lu that I would continue to wear the makeup I liked, if not make it even  bolder to spite his mother. From that point on, I've never heard a complaint again! 

Recently, Lu's father lectured that I shouldn't be playing with the street dogs outside their apartment. Really the only reason that this became an issue was because one of those cute dogs followed us up the stairwell to their apartment door and sat there waiting for me come out. I thought it was a funny situation when Lu's dad opened the door to find a ruffled little mutt sitting on the doorstep, but he was not impressed and yelled at the dog to leave. After scaring the poor little dog away, he started to lecture me about the "dangers" of dogs. I know he had my best interests at heart and this was his act of "tough love" but telling me that I couldn't pet dogs rubbed me the wrong way. I pretended to not understand his Chinese. Now I know that I just have to pet all those cute doggies when he's not watching! (And I have to keep them out of the apartment stairwell, haha!) 

My Chinese family

My darling-the reason I'm here to begin with

 The Scenery-

The famous pavilion at the Bamboo-lined Path at Yunqi 
It probably goes without saying that Hangzhou is of the prettiest cities in China. It has a long history of being "heaven on Earth" and the Hangzhou people are rightfully proud of their city's rich history with scenic West Lake and the surrounding hills filled with tea fields and mountaintop temples hidden within bamboo groves. Hangzhou has also made the dream of a "flower for every season" a reality. Plums, peaches, and cherry trees are planted in apartment complexes and alongside roads. Camellias, sweet osmanthus, and various annuals dot the landscape with color and fragrance. The people who designed the city really knew what they were doing! 

Plum blossoms

The famous stone Buddha at Lingyin Temple, Hangzhou

Liu-he-ta (Pagoda of Six Harmonies)


Plum Blossoms at Bagua-tian
Fall foliage is beautiful

 Even though I do detest big-city life and I would never choose it over living in the peaceful countryside, Hangzhou is filled with plants, even in the heart of downtown. For this very reason, I'm very grateful that my husband is from Hangzhou and not some other metropolis like Shanghai (which is the opposite of green) or Hong Kong. Also, unlike expats living in Shanghai or Beijing, a mountain hike or walk alongside the lake is just  minutes away by public bicycle or bus. Which leads me to my next point...


Public bicycle stand, image by City of Hangzhou

The Public Bicycle System- 

Hangzhou is said to have the largest public bicycle system in the world, and for that, I'm very glad. Forget about having to worry about hauling your own bicycle around and worrying about fixing your flats! This system is used by 280,000 passengers daily and helps those in Hangzhou lessen traffic on the road all while giving us much-needed excuse to stretch our legs. The first hour of use is free and past that is 20-30 cents an hour. This system is an absolute life-saver for me as a bicycle is often the fastest (and obviously cheapest) way to get around town. I would say that I use the public bicycles at least 3x a week. The initial capital for this system was paid for by the government and the ads on the bicycles and bicycle stands plus the slight fee charged after the first hour of use fund the company in charge of maintaining the system. On a sunny day, you will often see a group of bike mechanics, surrounded by a smattering of metal pieces, replacing old parts on the bicycles. 

The Food-

All the delicious foods of Chinese New Year-egg rolls, crabs, and hotpot!
 I don't even know where to start when talking about Chinese food. It's so varied based on personal taste and where in China you're from. I personally love the southeastern Chinese cuisine, as well as northwestern beef noodles and northeastern boiled dumplings. The cuisine of Zhejiang Province tends to be a little sour, a little sweet, and more refined than other cuisines of China. Since Zhejiang is an ocean-bordering province, there is an emphasis on seafood. However, there is plenty of poultry, pork, and freshwater fish as well. Bamboo shoots are said to be included in half the dishes of Hangzhou, whether it be soup or stir-fry. I know for a fact that lotus roots are also especially tasty here in Hangzhou. They are one of my favorite Chinese foods.

Sweet lotus root

Perhaps my favorite Chinese food-Shanghai soup dumplings!

Next, I want impress on you about how affordable it is to feed yourself here. Unlike many parts of the Western world, eating out is almost the same price as doing the cooking yourself. I am now extremely spoiled about going out to eat quite often. If Lu or I don't feel like cooking, we just need to decide what restaurant we want to sponsor! Since we live downtown, there are tons around, and since living here, we've found out which ones are the best and they've become our usual haunts. We are really close with the waitress at the sushi restaurant near our place and we've brought their bustling little izakaya even more business by bringing our friends and coworkers there on the weekends to dine with us.
Fruit is so cheap

Bubble tea is also very cheap and great for quenching that mid-afternoon hunger

 Our favorite local only-in-Hangzhou restaurant is Xin-bai-lu (aka New White Deer). It is known for its Mabo Tofu which is a mere $2 per order. It is a great value restaurant, with everything tasting delicious and a surprising quantity of food for the price. For a typical dinner with our bellies full to the brim with food and drink, we pay about $10 per person. On the downside, because of its affordability and delicious local food, every chain store of Xin-bai-lu experiences incredible popularity, to the point where you need to arrive before the dinner rush at 5:30, or risk waiting an hour to get seated. Waipo-jia (Grandma's Home) and Lü-cha (Green Tea) are some of our other local favorite restaurant chains. All serve authentic Hangzhou staples like Dongpo pork, sweet and sticky braised lotus-root stuffed with rice, West Lake sweet and sour carp, and freshwater shrimp stir-fried with green tea leaves. Ooh, I'm getting hungry just typing this up!

The famous West Lake sweet and sour carp and  green tea shrimp
Lu and I enjoyed his 31st birthday dinner at Xin-bai-lu
 Last but not least, I love street food here in China. When I first came here, I was doubtful about the cleanliness of buying food on the street, but since living here, I have found out that all street vendors have a carefully thought-out plan and art behind what they're peddling. A very typical street food in Hangzhou is cong-bao-hui, a type of flattened crepe with a deep-fried breadstick (youtiao), lots of green onions, and a sweet or spicy (your choice) sauce inside. As things are made to order, the food doesn't sit around getting old. In fact, whenever I'm handed street food (most often I'm buying shao-bing or a sweet potato) I'm often juggling it in my hands because it's so piping hot! My recent visit to Taiwan, with all its glorious night market foods, only fueled street food's credibility.

Two cong-bao-hui coming up!

 Differences with the U.S.-

Have you ever seen duvet covers, someone's knickers, or even fish drying out under the sun under a lampost? Neither had I, until I came to China. I have seen so many things that made me say, "Only in China." I've also noticed differences that are pertinent to Asia, like using your umbrella while riding your bicycle. Although it's technically illegal in both Japan and China, everyone does it (including me.)

No lack of interesting things to see out in public!
Something guaranteed to make me happy while eating out with my husband is the fact that he will refill my (and any other guest who happens to be with us) glasses whenever needed. Whether it's tea or beer, the Chinese have a saying, "fill your guest's teacup 70% full and their wine glass until it's overflowing." Sound advice to me.

Lu also tends to "take care of me" meaning that when we're eating at a big table and the dishes tend to be a long reach away with my chopsticks, he'll grab whatever's new or extra delicious on the table and put some in my bowl for me. At first, I didn't really like this because I felt like he was treating me like a baby or something, but now I realize it's just one of the many unspoken ways he shows me love. In fact, I've come to reciprocate the action over time. 

Hanging out under a bridge? You're perfectly safe here and enjoy the artwork!
Is it raining out? Just ride your bike with an umbrella in hand!
All in all, there are many things I love about living in China. Of course, there are many downsides (in my opinion) to living here ie. pollution, lack of personal space, noisiness, blahblahblah, but China's got some good things going for it. Although those downsides can sometimes get overwhelming, I always have to remind myself of how grateful I should be to be living here in China with caring people all around me and many new experiences to be had. 

Hope this post could give you some new information about China that you didn't already know! If you have any questions or concerns, please leave them in the comment section below. 
Thanks so much for reading and have a fantastic day~<3

Josie

5.24.2016

It's Been 10 Months in China: Where I'm At

 
West Lake, Hangzhou

 Wowzas. It's been a loooooong time since I've written a blog post. Like, since I lived in Japan-long. Now I'm in China and I've almost been here for 10 months. I started out my Chinese life with vlogging to keep track of my life, let me condense my feelings, and show others who haven't been to China before what life is like here in this huge, Communist country. However, my willingness to sit down in front of my camera and to later edit my video together has unfortunately fizzled out recently. Part of it's just laziness, the other part is that it's just embarrassing to record yourself and have to watch it later. (It's not just me, right?)

Check out my YouTube channel, JosieInChina, if you haven't already!

     However, I thought, why don't I just sit down and write down my thoughts? It's been a while since I could utilize this kind of stream-of-consciousness. I'm not exactly a concise writer and I'm definitely not good at keeping a logical sequence going (even in English!) but let's have a little conversation about China, shall we? I might be doing a fair-share of the talking though, hope that's ok with you. Hear me out...

    First things first, and it's going to sound all sappy and romantic, but to boil down my reason for being in China, it's this: I'm here because of love. Because I went to Japan and fell in love with a Chinese man. And I continue to fall more and more in love with him every day.

    Don't get me wrong, we have our moments of miscommunication and stubbornness, but we're both willing to make things right sooner rather than later. Also, we both have a foreigner for a spouse. You've gotta meet in the middle. Your foreign spouse is never going to connect-the-dots in the same way as you. Things you know to be common sense have to be laid out in terms clearer-than-crystal. You have to show and teach on a constant basis, whether it be language, cooking, or your own country's customs. Thankfully, this is a life the two of us enjoy. I feel like it's such an adventure to live with and love someone who's first language is not your own.

One of our Chinese wedding photos

    All in all, I'm very lucky that I got into the botany department of Zhejiang University, otherwise I probably wouldn't be here. Zhejiang University is one of the best universities in China. At the time I applied, I was afraid with my less-than-perfect college GPA, lack of Chinese-language skills, and the fact that I almost failing my physics course, that I'd never have a chance. Whether it was fate or just the fact that the university was hungering for more American students, I got in. I can still remember screaming when I finally got my acceptance email. My mom also started yelling and my dog, Mika, started scrambling around my feet trying to find out what the hell happened.

The front gate of Zhejiang University (浙江大学) on a snowy, December day

    For Americans coming to China, you'll need a visa of one type or the other. After a little research, I found out that being a Chinese national's fiance really doesn't help out your visa situation. Even if you're married, for a marriage visa to be considered valid, you can't be studying or working in the country. So, what are you supposed to do? Be a housekeeper? NO thanks.

This is the symbol of Hangzhou (杭州)-can you see the characters in the shadow? Hint:they're reversed.

    So, let's start off with the basics! I live in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province which is considered to be sub-tropical Southeastern China in geological terms. To put it in simple terms, Hangzhou definitely has four solid seasons and they are hot, mildly hot, cold, and mildly hot again. Maybe you can tell that I don't do well with heat. Nope, not at all. There's a reason why Hangzhou is labeled as "one of the three furnaces of China." If it's possible, I think summer in Hangzhou is even hotter and more humid than summer in Kyushu, Japan and much colder in the winter. In the summertime, while my husband, Lu, slept soundly under a comforter I pushed that hot blanket and his body heat as far away as I could on our bed and slept with the fan pointed at me whilst I sweated like a marathoner on a 100 degree-day. Once rainy season (occurring now) is over, it'll be back to that unbearable heat. For once, I'm not minding these cold, rainy days. At least it's not hot yet~

Photo of Shnaghai's Hongqiao Railway Station- Shutterstock

For some distance perspective, we're about a 50 minute bullet-train ride from Shanghai's biggest train hub: Shanghai Hongqiao Station. The Hangzhou East Railway Station (杭州东点) is only two subway stops from our Datieguan (打铁关) station, making it very convenient to travel out of town. Speaking of convenience, is there anything more convenient and pleasant than shrinking a normally 3- hour journey into 50 minutes on a clean and efficient train? Furthermore, the ticket only costs $16 USD. Covering the same distance by train in the U.S. is about 10x more expensive. 

    My husband (like all other Chinese people) refer to Hangzhou as a "small" town. Ahahah. Small my a**. If a city has 9 million people and growing, I'd consider that a BIG city. Considering that 9 million people is more of a population than my entire home state of Washington, I consider it with a little bit different outlook than a Chinese person. So, for future reference, if a Chinese person tells you that they come from a "small city," take their words with a grain of salt. Or ten. 

My panorama of downtown from the Hangzhou Sports Center where we sometimes go to play badminton together.

    But you can't blame them as China has a total population of over 1 billion. In fact, some Googling tells me that China had a population of 1.3 billion in 2013. 

    Even with the Hangzhou municipal government limiting the amount of cars that can be on the roads (depending on your license plates you can't drive on certain days of the week, in certain, usually congested places like West Lake, or at certain times of the day) it's still always possible to get in a thick traffic jam, no matter where or what time of day. It drives Lu crazy. Honestly, it's been such a constant inconvenience the whole time I've been here, I'm expecting to encounter bad traffic any time I go out. If we have the choice, we go by bicycle. It's always faster and it's good exercise. 

We often cycle to and around West Lake
    So, I can hear the question you have lingering in the forefront of your mind: how's your Chinese? If I was here to study purely Chinese, I think I'd be much better. But I'm not. I'm here to study ecology. Honestly, it's just enough to get by on my own. I can't hold much of a conversation besides asking someone's name, where they're from, what they study/do for work. I can read most short sentences. I do know and recognize a lot of random foods, especially fruits and vegetables, so that helps when I go shopping or go out to eat. I took an intro-level Chinese class as it's required for international postgrad students (and, of course, I wanted to) but the pace was too slow and I would have rather just taught myself. I pulled an A. I tried to take the Intermediate course the next semester and it was waaaay too advanced for me and the class was full, so I gave up on hoping to learn from a university class. Zhejiang University really dropped the ball with that. How do they expect us to learn Chinese? 

In the meantime, I continue to do self-study with a textbook and listen from Lu. I also practice Chinese characters in a primary-colored practice book meant for little Chinese kids. I have no shame. As much as my Chinese friend says it's not an effective way to learn, I'll prove her wrong. It's basically how I learned Japanese, and Japanese characters are nine times out of ten more complicated than Chinese characters, 汉字. 

On the last day of Chinese New Year out in the festively-decorated square of our apartment complex

      In this post, I hope I was able to give you a little idea of what my life in China is like. Of course, this is just a introduction, so I wasn't able to delve into too many specific details. I'd like to in the future. I really want to go into detail about culture differences because boy, there are a lot!! I really appreciate hearing first-hand accounts from other people in foreign countries. I often check books out of the library based on people's stories of living abroad because I find it so fascinating.

   Hope to talk more soon!
      Josie